Today is the day that will excite me, today is the day I will not have additional mark on my "Not Doing List", today is the day...I am challenging most dangerous road in Taiwan! In fact besides dangerous many of them would say it is hard to climb three hill along this road. Yes, I will bring my BlackBeauty to a "walk" on Suhua Highway a.k.a. Provincial Highway 9 (蘇華公路).
"Provincial Highway No. 9 is an important highway system cross the eastern Taiwan from Taipei City to Fangshan Township, Pingtung. This provincial highway, which at 479.779km is the longest provincial highway in Taiwan, passes the regions of Taipei City, New Taipei City, Yilan County, Hualien County, Taitung County and Pingtung County. Suhua Highway is a 118-kilometre section of the Provincial Highway No. 9 in Taiwan, starting at Su-ao Township, Yilan and ending at Hualien City, Hualien. With a portion built alongside very steep cliffs high above the Pacific Ocean, it is a dangerous yet scenic drive. Famous tourist stops include the Chingshui Cliffs." [Quoted in Wikipedia]We start early to avoid traffic especially trucks carrying sand and aggregate which most cyclist fear of when cycle on this highway. This highway was built on the cliff thus I expect no shade all the way to the destination, Suao (蘇澳). Many tunnels along the highway and we need to be visible all time with proper lighting and reflective material. I have to be prepared myself for the above mentioned possible "risk". Got myself all covered and my bike has minimum lighting but reflective material is never a miss. Moreover my flag pole does the job well, carrying Malaysian flag and a warning flag.Grab our breakfast nearby because after this village will not see many shop till we cross first hill climb. As told by cyclist friends, locals and online sources first hill is the easiest among the three. We don't take it easy thus going with a pace we feel comfortable with. I can't recall how many tunnel I passed, some short and dark some long and bright some has a small section where we can see the sky (could be 2 tunnel close to each other) and some are just simple tunnel with several pillar supporting a concrete slab. A little downhill then I reach first town Nanao (南澳) and it was quite early to have lunch therefore decided to take lunch in next town Dongao (). And in one of the tunnel I had a bad experience that might tarnish some of your plan to cycle here.
This is just a minor problem happened during my climb inside a tunnel towards Nanao. I never expect it was a climb inside the tunnel and some experienced cyclists advice us wait till no vehicle before entering tunnel and when inside tunnel make sure cycle fast to exit. I follow the advise but at about half way in the tunnel a truck was not able to bypass me due to incoming traffic then the truck driver blast his horn at me. When he had the chance to pass me, the truck driver slowing down his truck and shouted at me. I can't hear what he shouted at (due to the noise in confined area) but I am pretty sure he is cursing me. At that time I don't think much but just trying my best to go as fast as possible to not causing the traffic become worst in the tunnel. I won't feel the threat to cycle here just because of "one bad apple in the basket".
From the elevation profile of the map I routed for this day, second hill will have an unknown hill top with irregular hike. When climb till the top of this hill then I understand why it was showing in that manner. It was a tunnel that we have to climb till the top of the hill. Mapping tools are using satellite to show elevation and this section was covered by hill and tunnel therefore no accurate data available. Aft this tunnel will be going down hill to Dongao where we planned for lunch, but I am not hungry and thinking of going forward.
But to be prepared for the greatest climb on third hill which most local cyclist claimed hardest I need to have usual "carbo" loading. Dongao is a small town thus not many choice of food to offer. We settle down in a restaurant seems to be quite famous, saw few newspaper cutting paste on the wall.
Last hill climb on Suhua Highway was indeed the toughest among three of them. The steepness was greater compare to the other two and it is higher too. Moreover upgrading work is going on thus making it hard for a cyclist like to ride. Some section of the climb undergoing reinforcement on the road edge, and workers are in progress to install the road barriers. While climbing up the hill without the road barrier does create some sort of fear to fall and this fear was amplify when vehicle passing by you on the narrow road. As mentioned earlier reinforcement was carry on thus some section will have one way traffic control. That is another difficulty faced during climbing this hill, last one today for us. Although the length of the one way traffic control was short but it come with climbing make it harder for cyclist. By the time the traffic controller signal to switch traffic direction I am still trying hard to climb with heavy breathing halfway of the section. I understand the controller was not doing this by purpose nor not willing to wait for me but he has a job to make sure no traffic congestion in that area.
Overcome several "obstacle" and fear along the way, I reached a newly built rest area where you can have a view of the scenic ocean. Saw a small van equipped with lots of equipment you will only find in cafe bar. I am telling myself this must be my lucky day!!! After a chat with the "barista" knowing this location was near to the top of the hill immediately I ordered one ice-blended coffee to pampered myself. That coffee also a reward for completing all three climbs along Suhua Highway.
Done enjoying my coffee served cold in a hot day, start to climb a short distance then rolling down with the view of Nanfangao (南方澳). It was a short speedy downward roll from the altitude of about 370 meters above sea level. Came to a junction thus started to look for a place to stay for the night. I wold like to get my brake tune up before going to Jiufen (九份) where I might need it most. A Giant Bike store was not far from the junction thus approaching them to get their service. Too bad the technician was not around and the kind lady in store offer us the room for two persons at a very competitive price plus the service of our bike. We turn down the offer because would like to explore more option which I found on the web. Indeed the effort of doing "homework" like researching does pay off, the homestay I found on the web offering much better deal.
The owner of the homestay where we decide to stay for tonight offer more than just the room but also guide on how to explore the surrounding. We were lead to cold spring where most local would go but not those highly priced tourist spot. Besides getting ourselves soak into a fresh cold pool of spring water, we were recommend to go Nanfangao to visit several spots where even some Taiwanese would not be able to find it.
Drop our panniers then start exploring the surrounding as suggest by the homestay owner. Went to Nanfangao and it is one magnificent place not to miss if you ever come to Suao. I had another coffee from a cafe that used to be homestay. That cafe was awesome place to be because owner would like to bring the Santorini to Taiwan. The Blue White paint on his cafe with the design look exactly like those in Santorini. Got our dinner from the shop nearby then we heading back to the homestay. I decided to stayed in homestay getting my clothing clean up and planning the route for tomorrow while he is going to the cold spring pool. This homestay provide almost everything you need, water, sour plum juice, refrigerator, washing machine, wireless internet, etc. I can see many visitor from many countries stayed here and leave their wishes on the cloth provided by the homestay owner.
It was a great day to start with, let's go on Suhua!
Only this day I decided to cover myself in such way to prevent dust (especially when inside tunnel) went into my mouth or breath in through nose.
Sun was up but too shy to be seen.
First tunnel I will be going through, Chongde tunnel (崇德隧道)
Finally it shown a little....
Riding from south to north will face the tunnels first but out of three hills climb will start the lowest first. Huide tunnel (匯德隧道) is the second tunnel also longest (1500 meters) tunnel among those along Suhua Highway.
Jingwen tunnel (錦文隧道)
Besides climbing we get to enjoy the sunrise on Pacific Ocean.
Bicycles are allow into the tunnel, the sign says not allow to cycle on the pavement which is built for walking.
Hechingming tunnel (和清明隧道)
A notice board showing where you are and where you will find the rest stop or emergency stopping area.
After few more kilometers of climbing a look back was so happy. If you can see I came from that tunnel.
Heren tunnel (和仁隧道)
This notice board is very useful and informative, tells me where I am and how far is next stop I can take if I need a rest.
This is Heping (和平) town and I found this nice view at a place look like a depot.
Heping tunnel (和平隧道) with its cliff. Somewhere in this tunnel I was being cursed by a truck driver who want to pass me.
Heping town, still not yet to the first hill climb.
Aohua tunnerl (澳花隧道), one more tunnel before reaching Nanao (南澳) first town we expect to have longer break.
Crossed first hill then we reached Nanao where I earlier planned to grab our lunch. Seems like the time still early thus decided to proceed after a break.
Skipping Nanao as lunch stop thus need something to refill energy in case I am out of strength for second hill which should be higher and/or tougher than previous climb.
Took me an hour or more to reach this tunnel and I am taking the advantage of snapping this photo to get more rest. This is the tunnel on top of the second hill where we got weird data on elevation profile from GPS mapping.
On the other side of the tunnel, this board tells me I am near to Dongao (東澳).
Will have the fun of rolling down to next town and I am sure that is the place for lunch as I am hungry now. Burning all possible fat and "stock" in tummy to overcome 2 hills.
While rolling down I manage to stop for a photo, if not mistaken this is the port of Nanao.
Section 3 of Suhua road along Suhua Highway. This is the place we will grab our lunch, not at 160 but the shop you see in pink.
A memorial stone for those who sacrifice to build this Suhua Highway, without these unsung heroes I will not be able to enjoy the ride with the great view on Pacific Ocean. This stone was erected in 1917 nearby a temple named Chingantang (慶安堂) a.k.a. Kailuxianfengtang (開路先鋒爺) to commemorate 12 Japanese and Taiwanese sacrifice during the construction of this route.
A rest area with a platform for viewing, and I found something I appreciate more than just scenic view.
A barista is preparing his best art work for the customer.
A van that was equipped with several "high tech" stuff like a mini cafe on the this hill.
Just another few meters ahead then should be rolling down to Suao (蘇澳) from the last hill on Suhua highway.
I love this section while rolling down, took me a while to completely stop my bike due to the gradient.
Something I should not forget was to tag myself in this location for a beacon of geo-tagging.
This section has a unique view, awesome view.
An overview on Nanfangao....I bet the sunrise/sunset would be better.
Later we have to cross this bridge to another side of Nanfangao that promised you an astonishing view.
Something to cool down the heat in the body from the sun as well as from the "engine" that worked non-stop to reach here.
Yes...we done Suhua Highway, where every cyclist dream of doing when they planned to cycle around Taiwan Island.
This ice dessert shop do have lots of history, though the year mentioned was 1968 but it was founded long before that. The founder whom was the father of current owner start his ice dessert business even before his son was born. Because that photo on the wall was taken in 1968 which was the only proof of their business thus had to use that year.
Found the classic horn they use in older day by those ice cream seller.
Got myself Pineapple flavored ice cream a replacement to my favorite Mango which is not available in this season.
The lady cyclist in this photo was the owner of the homestay. She was so kind ride on her bicycle showing us the way to the best spot in Suao and Nanfangao.
While crossing this bridge to the other side of Nanfangao, saw a celebration is going on in a temple.
New found land....love it.
We found this place by mistake, but we do intend to find it.
This place worth spending more time...
A view on my BlackBeauty with coffee in Pacific 20M (海洋20M)
A view from the top of the cafe.
The owner showing us the cafe, tells us why and how he setup the place.
Owner and his life partner....a group photo before leaving.
Another shot at the entrance.
This is another place where fishing boat will park.
Choose this famous shop for our dinner...nice small shop offer good food. if you love fish ball then should come to this shop.
That is the cloth we left our message with and she it the homestay owner LuMama (盧媽媽).
Part 1 actual ride route on day 10 with elevation profile and speed graph against distance.
Part 2 actual ride route on day 10 with elevation profile and speed graph against distance.
Part 1 ride detail from my Garmin Edge 800.
Part 2 ride detail from my Garmin Edge 800.
Today is the day that will excite me, today is the day I will not have additional mark on my "Not Doing List", today is the day...I am challenging most dangerous road in Taiwan! In fact besides dangerous many of them would say it is hard to climb three hill along this road. Yes, I will bring my BlackBeauty to a "walk" on Suhua Highway a.k.a. Provincial Highway 9 (蘇華公路).
"Provincial Highway No. 9 is an important highway system cross the eastern Taiwan from Taipei City to Fangshan Township, Pingtung. This provincial highway, which at 479.779km is the longest provincial highway in Taiwan, passes the regions of Taipei City, New Taipei City, Yilan County, Hualien County, Taitung County and Pingtung County. Suhua Highway is a 118-kilometre section of the Provincial Highway No. 9 in Taiwan, starting at Su-ao Township, Yilan and ending at Hualien City, Hualien. With a portion built alongside very steep cliffs high above the Pacific Ocean, it is a dangerous yet scenic drive. Famous tourist stops include the Chingshui Cliffs." [Quoted in Wikipedia]We start early to avoid traffic especially trucks carrying sand and aggregate which most cyclist fear of when cycle on this highway. This highway was built on the cliff thus I expect no shade all the way to the destination, Suao (蘇澳). Many tunnels along the highway and we need to be visible all time with proper lighting and reflective material. I have to be prepared myself for the above mentioned possible "risk". Got myself all covered and my bike has minimum lighting but reflective material is never a miss. Moreover my flag pole does the job well, carrying Malaysian flag and a warning flag.Grab our breakfast nearby because after this village will not see many shop till we cross first hill climb. As told by cyclist friends, locals and online sources first hill is the easiest among the three. We don't take it easy thus going with a pace we feel comfortable with. I can't recall how many tunnel I passed, some short and dark some long and bright some has a small section where we can see the sky (could be 2 tunnel close to each other) and some are just simple tunnel with several pillar supporting a concrete slab. A little downhill then I reach first town Nanao (南澳) and it was quite early to have lunch therefore decided to take lunch in next town Dongao (). And in one of the tunnel I had a bad experience that might tarnish some of your plan to cycle here.
This is just a minor problem happened during my climb inside a tunnel towards Nanao. I never expect it was a climb inside the tunnel and some experienced cyclists advice us wait till no vehicle before entering tunnel and when inside tunnel make sure cycle fast to exit. I follow the advise but at about half way in the tunnel a truck was not able to bypass me due to incoming traffic then the truck driver blast his horn at me. When he had the chance to pass me, the truck driver slowing down his truck and shouted at me. I can't hear what he shouted at (due to the noise in confined area) but I am pretty sure he is cursing me. At that time I don't think much but just trying my best to go as fast as possible to not causing the traffic become worst in the tunnel. I won't feel the threat to cycle here just because of "one bad apple in the basket".
From the elevation profile of the map I routed for this day, second hill will have an unknown hill top with irregular hike. When climb till the top of this hill then I understand why it was showing in that manner. It was a tunnel that we have to climb till the top of the hill. Mapping tools are using satellite to show elevation and this section was covered by hill and tunnel therefore no accurate data available. Aft this tunnel will be going down hill to Dongao where we planned for lunch, but I am not hungry and thinking of going forward.
But to be prepared for the greatest climb on third hill which most local cyclist claimed hardest I need to have usual "carbo" loading. Dongao is a small town thus not many choice of food to offer. We settle down in a restaurant seems to be quite famous, saw few newspaper cutting paste on the wall.
Last hill climb on Suhua Highway was indeed the toughest among three of them. The steepness was greater compare to the other two and it is higher too. Moreover upgrading work is going on thus making it hard for a cyclist like to ride. Some section of the climb undergoing reinforcement on the road edge, and workers are in progress to install the road barriers. While climbing up the hill without the road barrier does create some sort of fear to fall and this fear was amplify when vehicle passing by you on the narrow road. As mentioned earlier reinforcement was carry on thus some section will have one way traffic control. That is another difficulty faced during climbing this hill, last one today for us. Although the length of the one way traffic control was short but it come with climbing make it harder for cyclist. By the time the traffic controller signal to switch traffic direction I am still trying hard to climb with heavy breathing halfway of the section. I understand the controller was not doing this by purpose nor not willing to wait for me but he has a job to make sure no traffic congestion in that area.
Overcome several "obstacle" and fear along the way, I reached a newly built rest area where you can have a view of the scenic ocean. Saw a small van equipped with lots of equipment you will only find in cafe bar. I am telling myself this must be my lucky day!!! After a chat with the "barista" knowing this location was near to the top of the hill immediately I ordered one ice-blended coffee to pampered myself. That coffee also a reward for completing all three climbs along Suhua Highway.
Done enjoying my coffee served cold in a hot day, start to climb a short distance then rolling down with the view of Nanfangao (南方澳). It was a short speedy downward roll from the altitude of about 370 meters above sea level. Came to a junction thus started to look for a place to stay for the night. I wold like to get my brake tune up before going to Jiufen (九份) where I might need it most. A Giant Bike store was not far from the junction thus approaching them to get their service. Too bad the technician was not around and the kind lady in store offer us the room for two persons at a very competitive price plus the service of our bike. We turn down the offer because would like to explore more option which I found on the web. Indeed the effort of doing "homework" like researching does pay off, the homestay I found on the web offering much better deal.
The owner of the homestay where we decide to stay for tonight offer more than just the room but also guide on how to explore the surrounding. We were lead to cold spring where most local would go but not those highly priced tourist spot. Besides getting ourselves soak into a fresh cold pool of spring water, we were recommend to go Nanfangao to visit several spots where even some Taiwanese would not be able to find it.
Drop our panniers then start exploring the surrounding as suggest by the homestay owner. Went to Nanfangao and it is one magnificent place not to miss if you ever come to Suao. I had another coffee from a cafe that used to be homestay. That cafe was awesome place to be because owner would like to bring the Santorini to Taiwan. The Blue White paint on his cafe with the design look exactly like those in Santorini. Got our dinner from the shop nearby then we heading back to the homestay. I decided to stayed in homestay getting my clothing clean up and planning the route for tomorrow while he is going to the cold spring pool. This homestay provide almost everything you need, water, sour plum juice, refrigerator, washing machine, wireless internet, etc. I can see many visitor from many countries stayed here and leave their wishes on the cloth provided by the homestay owner.
It was a great day to start with, let's go on Suhua!
Only this day I decided to cover myself in such way to prevent dust (especially when inside tunnel) went into my mouth or breath in through nose.
Sun was up but too shy to be seen.
First tunnel I will be going through, Chongde tunnel (崇德隧道)
Finally it shown a little....
Riding from south to north will face the tunnels first but out of three hills climb will start the lowest first. Huide tunnel (匯德隧道) is the second tunnel also longest (1500 meters) tunnel among those along Suhua Highway.
Jingwen tunnel (錦文隧道)
Besides climbing we get to enjoy the sunrise on Pacific Ocean.
Bicycles are allow into the tunnel, the sign says not allow to cycle on the pavement which is built for walking.
Hechingming tunnel (和清明隧道)
A notice board showing where you are and where you will find the rest stop or emergency stopping area.
After few more kilometers of climbing a look back was so happy. If you can see I came from that tunnel.
Heren tunnel (和仁隧道)
This notice board is very useful and informative, tells me where I am and how far is next stop I can take if I need a rest.
This is Heping (和平) town and I found this nice view at a place look like a depot.
Heping tunnel (和平隧道) with its cliff. Somewhere in this tunnel I was being cursed by a truck driver who want to pass me.
Heping town, still not yet to the first hill climb.
Aohua tunnerl (澳花隧道), one more tunnel before reaching Nanao (南澳) first town we expect to have longer break.
Crossed first hill then we reached Nanao where I earlier planned to grab our lunch. Seems like the time still early thus decided to proceed after a break.
Skipping Nanao as lunch stop thus need something to refill energy in case I am out of strength for second hill which should be higher and/or tougher than previous climb.
Took me an hour or more to reach this tunnel and I am taking the advantage of snapping this photo to get more rest. This is the tunnel on top of the second hill where we got weird data on elevation profile from GPS mapping.
On the other side of the tunnel, this board tells me I am near to Dongao (東澳).
Will have the fun of rolling down to next town and I am sure that is the place for lunch as I am hungry now. Burning all possible fat and "stock" in tummy to overcome 2 hills.
While rolling down I manage to stop for a photo, if not mistaken this is the port of Nanao.
Section 3 of Suhua road along Suhua Highway. This is the place we will grab our lunch, not at 160 but the shop you see in pink.
A memorial stone for those who sacrifice to build this Suhua Highway, without these unsung heroes I will not be able to enjoy the ride with the great view on Pacific Ocean. This stone was erected in 1917 nearby a temple named Chingantang (慶安堂) a.k.a. Kailuxianfengtang (開路先鋒爺) to commemorate 12 Japanese and Taiwanese sacrifice during the construction of this route.
A rest area with a platform for viewing, and I found something I appreciate more than just scenic view.
A barista is preparing his best art work for the customer.
A van that was equipped with several "high tech" stuff like a mini cafe on the this hill.
Just another few meters ahead then should be rolling down to Suao (蘇澳) from the last hill on Suhua highway.
I love this section while rolling down, took me a while to completely stop my bike due to the gradient.
Something I should not forget was to tag myself in this location for a beacon of geo-tagging.
This section has a unique view, awesome view.
An overview on Nanfangao....I bet the sunrise/sunset would be better.
Later we have to cross this bridge to another side of Nanfangao that promised you an astonishing view.
Something to cool down the heat in the body from the sun as well as from the "engine" that worked non-stop to reach here.
Yes...we done Suhua Highway, where every cyclist dream of doing when they planned to cycle around Taiwan Island.
This ice dessert shop do have lots of history, though the year mentioned was 1968 but it was founded long before that. The founder whom was the father of current owner start his ice dessert business even before his son was born. Because that photo on the wall was taken in 1968 which was the only proof of their business thus had to use that year.
Found the classic horn they use in older day by those ice cream seller.
Got myself Pineapple flavored ice cream a replacement to my favorite Mango which is not available in this season.
The lady cyclist in this photo was the owner of the homestay. She was so kind ride on her bicycle showing us the way to the best spot in Suao and Nanfangao.
While crossing this bridge to the other side of Nanfangao, saw a celebration is going on in a temple.
New found land....love it.
We found this place by mistake, but we do intend to find it.
This place worth spending more time...
A view on my BlackBeauty with coffee in Pacific 20M (海洋20M)
A view from the top of the cafe.
The owner showing us the cafe, tells us why and how he setup the place.
Owner and his life partner....a group photo before leaving.
Another shot at the entrance.
This is another place where fishing boat will park.
Choose this famous shop for our dinner...nice small shop offer good food. if you love fish ball then should come to this shop.
That is the cloth we left our message with and she it the homestay owner LuMama (盧媽媽).
Part 1 actual ride route on day 10 with elevation profile and speed graph against distance.
Part 2 actual ride route on day 10 with elevation profile and speed graph against distance.
Part 1 ride detail from my Garmin Edge 800.
Part 2 ride detail from my Garmin Edge 800.
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